Like many other labels, Autumn/Winter 2012 is welcoming Roksanda Ilincic
's turn to a much heavier and masculine look, representing the complete antithesis of the girly hype that was brought with SS12.
A sense of dramatic luxury was nevertheless retained on the runway, through the texture of thicker fabrics such as wool jersey and felt, entwined with rich, deep colours, revolving around amethyst, burgundy and turquoise. Indeed, the presence of such fabrics added to a fuller silhouette, which remained heavy, whilst the structured and sculptural hemlines stand out, emulating a post war silhouette.
Inspired by weekend leisure-wear and menswear fabrics, the man-meets-woman vibe was ever present on the Roksanda runway. Crisp white shirts featured as a staple in the collection, either paired with a high-waisted patterned trouser or 1920's-esque bold pinafore dress with a fur shrug, injecting a hint of old-fashioned glamour. Fur was often seen in the collection, being the focal point in the key pieces. However, intricate beading on the collars of blazers and all over jackets and dresses on a silk fabric retained a large amount of the collections femininity in an elegant and luxurious way.
The presence of accessories on the runway did not remove the attention from the heavy structure of the silhouette but merely complimented it in contrasting shapes. Relaxed duffel bags in bright scarlet hues were an effortless touch that dressed down the otherwise formal collection.
The make up encapsulated a darker and well-structured presence. Barely-there lips and a slightly bronzed cheek laid the canvas for a smouldering smoky-eye that added a sultry cool that Roksanda does so well.
It's safe to say the key focus is undeniably androgyny. Yet, whilst the body of the silhouette retains a masculine feel, the luxurious and feminine side is embodied in the smaller details, such as the detailed beading and the gold threaded boucle fabric.Roksandailincic.com
Words by Sabina Rouse
Images by Laura Shehata
22:49 - 16/07/12
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