If you haven't heard of Kinder Aggugini
, then shame on you. The London-based Italian designer has had his fingers in many a fashion pie and his Autumn Winter '12 collection is full of delicious prints you never knew you couldn't live without.
"Coco Chanel marries Sid Vicious" is how Kinder describes his design signature on his London Fashion Week Profile. If we told you this meant a collection which includes cowboys, Miss Piggy, Kermit, conjoined twins, tweeds and Doc Martins, you'd probably be thinking of steering well clear. In reality it's a delicious mix of femininity with just the right amount of boyish attitude that suddenly makes a whole lot of sense.
The pieces are made from traditionally masculine fabrics that have been treated with acid to break down the fibres to produce a more delicate effect. This battle of the sexes is evident right down the detail of the ladylike blouses with the cowboy print and limited 'MIE' Doc Martin loafers embellished with glitter and tassels that add a hint of ironic masculinity to the collection. But this isn't about androgyny; it's about taking elements like Harris Tweed, Melton wool in boxy shapes, and transforming them into something distinctly feminine.
The real magic of the collection is in the print clash. Anyone who has tried this at home knows that mixing your prints can go horribly, horribly wrong, but the palette of cherry red, sky blue, light grey and grass green means that the patterns complement rather than compete. It's all about the balance, just the right amount of print with just a cheeky slash of contrast on the underside of the sleeve. By keeping the palette distinct and clear Kinder juggles three or four different prints into one look without overwhelming the outfit or onlookers.
Like the soundtrack of Kinder's show, where Dolly Parton meets Jay Z, the collection embodies an aesthetic you'd never expect to see together but somehow it's hitting all the right notes.Aggugini.com
Words by Samantha Vandersteen
Images by Laura Shehata
19:01 - 04/06/12
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