Acne Studios Morning Gabardine Dress - £363   Charlie May Leather Foil Jacket - £625
Blake LDN Foxborough Sweater - £120   Topshop Unique Pool Sliders - £55
Etre Cecile Bad Ass Paris - £70   V Simplicity Tier Ring - £75
Merchant Archive Leather Tote Bag - £430   Moxham Otto Silver - £62

David Koma's Power Tribe

You can always recognise a piece by David Koma from a mile off. Seriously. Something about the feminine silhouette has 'super woman' written all over it, but not the intimidating dominatrix kind. The uber-confident type who doesn't take no for an answer, and definitely doesn't compromise on what she wears. Laser-cut Nappa leathers, cashmere wool, sheepskin, fur, embroidery and digital print are worn to emphasis her female form. Then there's the pattern-induced-embellishments, which we can go wax lyrical about; previous adornments include architectural pleats, sculptural spikes, peplums, oversized pom-poms and circular discs, all are inimitable Koma signatures. And so when anyone wears a David Koma, and trust us, you know it when you see one, we like to call it the 'Koma-effect'.

Whilst the 'Koma-effect' is spreading like wildfire, attracting attention from global pop-stars/actresses, creating a limited edition mini collection for Topshop, the London based designer continues to woo us with his heavily embellished body con pieces, a trademark that David has truly made his own. This time, pushing the notion of embellishment far and beyond, he cites artist Kim Joon and tribal body paint as the beginnings for his Spring/Summer 2012 collection.

We spoke to David about the collection after the show:

Where did the tribal print stem from?

It came from Polynesian patterns worn by their tribes. We did a lot of research into the body art and markings. The mesh and netting inspirations came from contemporary artist, Kim Joon who decorates intertwining bodies with fluid painting, and from that, we wanted to recreate the transparency over block colours, by using the mesh and devore that conceals and reveals the female form.

Tell us more about the use of leather tassles

During our research we came across the Hawaiian grass skirt, but I wanted to toughen it up in leather, so we went to Africa to source the leather, which I guess added to tribal-y-ness of the whole collection.

And what about the perspex embellishments?

The embellishments came from the idea of pearls, we wanted to create an indigenous pearl effect which was engineered into the garment. We worked with jewellery designer Sarah Angold to create 3.D. engineered pieces using iridescent perspex. We designed them on computers to get the structure within the pattern, and then they were sewn on one by one, creating colour changes with movement.

What about the colours you went for?

We wanted to use very bright colours, but in a more gentle way. The yellow is very near to neon but it's not neon, which when layered with white gives it a very special feminine tone to the brights. It's an injection of colour through the skin giving it a completely different feel to the mood and the garment.

David Koma will be showing at London Fashion Week in February 2012 and is stocked at Browns Focus and Harrods and the collection is available worldwide in various boutiques.

Louisa Lau
10:58 - 19/01/12