In the year of the Jubilee and the London Olympics it's hard not to get caught up in a sense of national pride. This certainly seems to be the case at Jonathan Saunders
whose new collection is deliciously English. Are you feeling patriotic yet?
Since graduating from Central St Martin's in 2002, the Scottish born designer has spent the last 10 years winning award after prestigious award. As if running his own successful designer label wasn't enough, Saunders has collaborated with high street favourite, Topshop, and US brand Target. With Emeli Sande wearing one of his gowns to perform at the Olympics opening ceremony, we don't expect Saunders will be sitting down with his feet up any time soon.
Despite his Scottish roots, good old English eccentricity shines through Saunders AW12 collection. But don't be fooled into thinking this collection is only for country mice, traditional knits and quilted jackets are given a modern update with neat silhouettes, slimline trousers and clashing colourways which will look equally at home on town mice as they pound the city streets. Contoured waists and sharp lines play down the exaggerated textures to produce a clean, feminine silhouette. Saunders uses mélange wool jacquards, quilted crepe and silks producing a three dimensional, tactile collection that somehow manages to feel both vintage and achingly modern.
The colour palette of warm shades of red, green, brown and lilac are a masterclass in how to pull off a colour clash which is set to be a big trend come autumn, albeit a tricky one. Yet Saunders' flair for colour pulls this off with aplomb and stops the eccentricity wobbling over into downright mad. His trademark use of silk screening techniques creates printed floral, flirty dresses in lilac and red with ladylike winter coats waiting to take you from office to bar without even flinching.
If sullen and sulky really isn't your thing, then this is the perfect antidote to the gothic glamour that is sauntering down many of the AW12 catwalks. This collection will brighten up your winter wardrobe with luxurious interchangeable pieces to arm you against the chill. A collaboration with Fleet Ilya, luxury accessories designer, cinches in waists with leather belts and adds quirky finishing touches to a collection that is fun, interesting and edging towards equine. If Jonathan Saunders
was in the Olympics he'd definitely be the one to beat.Jonathan Saunders has collaborated with the British Fashion Council to create the visuals and event branding for the upcoming London Fashion Week in September 2012. The print is an adaptation of his ombre print from Resort 2013.
Words by Samantha Vandersteen
Images by Laura Shehata
18:47 - 04/08/12
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